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Storage for the links
Storage for the links
As a programmer and language enthusiast I've been very interested in Markov chains for some time. Considering the influence of natural language on password and passphrase selection (by humans of co...
Одной из характерных черт архитектуры ПК является размещение в физическом адресном пространстве памяти не только собственно памяти компьютера (ОЗУ и ПЗУ), но и видеопамяти, а также регистров различных контроллеров. Ощутимым недостатком ПК, отчасти обусловленным историческими причинами, является фрагментация адресного пространства, когда ОЗУ, видеопамять, ПЗУ и регистры устройств расположены «лоскутами», довольно хаотично чередуясь друг с другом. Чтобы определить диапазоны физических адресов...
Vite plugin for inferno app, and includes boilerplates write with Vite 2 + Inferno 8.0 - guocaoyi/vite-plugins
Download 3D printable STL models
As you know it is possible to change software and repair corrupted software using fastboot. Sometimes we can get Fastboot errors. And we have compiled some
SpeedDrive documentation PROJECT MOVED TO GITHUB. VISIT GITHUB REPO FOR LATEST FILES AND UPDATES. The motivation behind creating the SpeedDrive mount was to extract maximum performance out of my ender3 with mostly stock parts. Print FAST with near-perfect quality. After pushing Bowden to its limit, I came to the conclusion (like many others), that sharp and accurate corners are simply impossible with a Bowden setup. Bowden setups are great for models with curvature, but for my particular uses, I was printing precisely engineered parts that often needed to fit together. Bowden setups produce poor corners because of imprecise linear/pressure advance due to play and friction inside the Bowden tube. This can be reduced to some extent, but never entirely eliminated.I started playing around with various mount designs and found them to be inadequate. The corners were good, but ringing and vibration prevented high speed printing and good bed adhesion. The orientation of the motor and distance from the X extrusion was not suited for sufficient inertial dampening. In creating this mount, there were two operating principles:Orientation of the motor (shaft) should be perpendicular to the X extrusion for good absorption of rotational inertia. The motor's centre of mass should be as close as possible to the middle of the X extrusion for absorption of its significant linear inertia at speed. Staying true to the operating principles, my solution was to mount the motor from behind the carriage with the extruder facing forwards. Speeds upwards of 100mm/s and accelerations of 3000+ are not only possible, these are real operating speeds that I have been using day to day for all my prints (see image of xyz cube). By no means is your printer guaranteed to get these results right off the bat, start at 1500accel and work up from there. There are now several designs and remixes claiming to be an improvement over the original SpeedDrive. I am all for innovation, however many of these designs violate one or both of the operating principles inherent to the SpeedDrive design. For this reason, I would not recommend any design or remix not explicitly listed on this page. Remixes and improvements are welcome however I encourage designers to stay faithful to the design principles. IMPORTANT NOTE!!The only downside to this solution is that the stock motor will slam into the frame unless the X endstop is adjusted. Therefore, I have also designed a 7.5mm endstop spacer that fits onto the carriage. This will shorten the bed in the X orientation by roughly 1cm on each side. In slicer, your Ender's bed size should also be changed to 200mm in the X direction.See the remix by dascook for reclaiming lost X space if thats important to you (BMG only, pancake stepper required).Also, for very tall prints you will need to extend the e-motor cable and adjust the printer's Z height in slicer to 200mm. DEMOThis is a demo of a near-perfect calibration cube printed in 13minutes using Klipper firmware and pressure advance (see picture). When my ender was still Bowden, I could only manage a 15minute cube with acceptable results. I don't know what to make of this because in theory, the Bowden setup should get higher speeds but it appears that superior corner performance and placement of the SpeedDrive negates the weight disadvantage. This is actually not that surprising because PRUSA printers are known to print at these speeds with similar quality. SPEEDDRIVE PRINT AND INSTALLATIONPrint with the flat part down, at least 4 walls and 50% gyroid infill. Enable support roof. 0.2 should be fine. PLA is fine. I recommend tightening the mount first without the v-wheel sleeves. This will
Federate Identity Provider
Убей в себе графомана - статья Олега Волкова, которая отвечает на вопрос "Кто такой графоман?" и какими признаками обладает графоманская проза.
sudo add-apt-repository ppa:ar-lex/gamescope
This is a free model, If you get the chance to 3D Print and assemble please send me your drone video.
FPV drones are a fun but often costly hobby for beginners. Opting for a smaller drone will reduce the chance of damaging the drone when one invariably crashes, and the smaller props are also a lot safer if there are any innocent bystanders. In this project, we wanted a 3D Printable FPV drone that they could comfortably fly in-and-out of doors, so of course they built their own.
Once the drone’s frame was 3D printed, the most complex part about soldering four small-yet-powerful 8.5 mm motors to the AIO flight controller is ensuring that you attach them in the correct configuration and triple-checking them. A quick reshuffling of the battery connections and mounting the FPV camera all but completed the hardware side of the build.
Before plugging your flight controller into your PC to program, the battery must be disconnected unless you want to fry your board. Otherwise, flashing the board and programming it simply requires patience and a lot of saving your work. Once that’s done and you’ve paired everything together, the sky or ceiling is the limit!
We have made a tutorial video of the entire build, below we will also provide a full list of the parts needed, as well as alternative options like building the frame in less than 6 hours for anyone wanting to make their own and fly the same day.
Specs and Features
Built for Long Range, high flight duration and optimal performance
Frame 3D printed In
Frame is Printed in One piece
Drone Uses Li-ion Battery cells (2S)
Parts List
3D Printed Frame (1 Piece)
Flight Controller: Happymodel ELRSF4 2G4 AIO 5-in-1
Receiver: ExpressLRS 2.4GHz (integrated inside FC)
Camera: Ant Nano FPV Camera
VTX: 5.8GHz 25mw~200mw 40ch VTX (integrated inside FC)
Propellers: Gemfan 75mm bi-blade Propellers
Motors: Happymodel EX1202.5 11500KV
Size: 125mmx115mmx40mm (without propellers)
Weight: 64g (without batteries)
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Screego - open source screen sharing for developers
Montini building bricks were produced from 1961 to 1969 in the Netherlands. | Download free 3D printable STL models
A lovely pipped version of tetrahedral D4. I have oriented this in such a way that you should be able to print it… | Download free 3D printable STL models
Duct for Creality Fan Cooling Kit | Download free 3D printable STL models
Ultimate camera streaming application with support RTSP, RTMP, HTTP-FLV, WebRTC, MSE, HLS, MP4, MJPEG, HomeKit, FFmpeg, etc. - AlexxIT/go2rtc