This week and next, we’re going to look at an issue not of battles, but of settings: pre-modern cities – particularly the trope of the city, town or castle set out all alone in the midd…

Welcome to E621Contents: Quick Links | Tutorials and Guides | Staff | Features | ContributorsE621 is a mature furry imageboard. It is based off, and inspired by, Danbooru.Our mission is to archive ...

Todos os episódios legendados da 1ª temporada de My Little Pony: A Amizade é Mágica num só lugar. Confiram o blog MLP Brasil! https://mylittleponybrasill.blogspot.com

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SpeedDrive documentation PROJECT MOVED TO GITHUB. VISIT GITHUB REPO FOR LATEST FILES AND UPDATES. The motivation behind creating the SpeedDrive mount was to extract maximum performance out of my ender3 with mostly stock parts. Print FAST with near-perfect quality. After pushing Bowden to its limit, I came to the conclusion (like many others), that sharp and accurate corners are simply impossible with a Bowden setup. Bowden setups are great for models with curvature, but for my particular uses, I was printing precisely engineered parts that often needed to fit together. Bowden setups produce poor corners because of imprecise linear/pressure advance due to play and friction inside the Bowden tube. This can be reduced to some extent, but never entirely eliminated.I started playing around with various mount designs and found them to be inadequate. The corners were good, but ringing and vibration prevented high speed printing and good bed adhesion. The orientation of the motor and distance from the X extrusion was not suited for sufficient inertial dampening. In creating this mount, there were two operating principles:Orientation of the motor (shaft) should be perpendicular to the X extrusion for good absorption of rotational inertia. The motor's centre of mass should be as close as possible to the middle of the X extrusion for absorption of its significant linear inertia at speed. Staying true to the operating principles, my solution was to mount the motor from behind the carriage with the extruder facing forwards. Speeds upwards of 100mm/s and accelerations of 3000+ are not only possible, these are real operating speeds that I have been using day to day for all my prints (see image of xyz cube). By no means is your printer guaranteed to get these results right off the bat, start at 1500accel and work up from there. There are now several designs and remixes claiming to be an improvement over the original SpeedDrive. I am all for innovation, however many of these designs violate one or both of the operating principles inherent to the SpeedDrive design. For this reason, I would not recommend any design or remix not explicitly listed on this page. Remixes and improvements are welcome however I encourage designers to stay faithful to the design principles. IMPORTANT NOTE!!The only downside to this solution is that the stock motor will slam into the frame unless the X endstop is adjusted. Therefore, I have also designed a 7.5mm endstop spacer that fits onto the carriage. This will shorten the bed in the X orientation by roughly 1cm on each side. In slicer, your Ender's bed size should also be changed to 200mm in the X direction.See the remix by dascook for reclaiming lost X space if thats important to you (BMG only, pancake stepper required).Also, for very tall prints you will need to extend the e-motor cable and adjust the printer's Z height in slicer to 200mm. DEMOThis is a demo of a near-perfect calibration cube printed in 13minutes using Klipper firmware and pressure advance (see picture). When my ender was still Bowden, I could only manage a 15minute cube with acceptable results. I don't know what to make of this because in theory, the Bowden setup should get higher speeds but it appears that superior corner performance and placement of the SpeedDrive negates the weight disadvantage. This is actually not that surprising because PRUSA printers are known to print at these speeds with similar quality. SPEEDDRIVE PRINT AND INSTALLATIONPrint with the flat part down, at least 4 walls and 50% gyroid infill. Enable support roof. 0.2 should be fine. PLA is fine. I recommend tightening the mount first without the v-wheel sleeves. This will

I'm trying to deserialize the following xml data: <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <wfs:FeatureCollection timeStamp="2022-11-11T14:52:17Z" numberReturned="100" numberMatched="100" xmlns:wfs="http://www.opengis.net/wfs/2.0" xmlns:gml="http://www.opengis.net/gml/3.2" xmlns:BsWfs="http://xml.fmi.fi/schema/wfs/2.0" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.opengis.net/wfs/2.0 http:schemas.opengis.net/wfs/2.0/wfs.xsd ...

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Introducing a modular organizer designed for storing small parts like bolts, nuts, screws, electronics, and other components. Perfect for workshops, electronics, and DIY enthusiasts!
Key Features:
Sliding drawers – open by pressing the top button.
Two drawer sizes – small and large versions included.
Dividers – optional separators for better organization.
-Modular system – connect multiple units with clips to create a custom storage setup.
-Optimized for 3D printing – prints easily without supports and assembles effortlessly.
The set also includes two templates (large and small) for cutting stickers for the boxes.
Dimensions:
Small drawer: 60 × 34.5 × 21.5 mm
Large drawer: 60 × 79.5 × 21.5 mm
I recommend placing this organizer flush against the wall to prevent it from sliding on the table when pressing the buttons. You can also secure it to the table using double-sided tape
Video https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RXhBib027OM
You can purchase the right to resell 3D-printed models. However, selling digital files is prohibited. Full details are available on Patreon (https://www.patreon.com/c/DenStasis/membership)
Let me know if you'd like any adjustments!

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